Hi Dino,

Here’s what this website has to say about the breed character: http://www.flockguard.org/caucasian.htm

Character: Protective, territorial, suspicious, alert, trainable and willing workers. Requires above average socialization and firm, inducive training. Family oriented, demonstrative, and gentle to well-mannered children with proper raising. Must be under control at all times - fence, leash and voice control. Can be noisy, unmanageable, owner dominant. A wonderful breed but not for everyone

I’d also be tempted to ask you, (and this isn’t intended to be cheeky) – how can you say you want one, if you know you don’t know enough about the breed yet? Surely you can only decide if you want one or not, AFTER you have found everything out?

What I did before getting my dog (and this was just a basic Labrador) was I spent months researching the internet (which you’re doing – great); reading books (which you have already started I see); visiting as many people as you can who own this breed (try to see different ages, sexes, etc, and not just breeders); visiting a rescue centre that has perhaps dealt with these dogs before; speak to some vets about common problems, costs associated, (has the vet you're thinking of using got experience with this breed - very important in your case); do some thinking about your home set up, location, what your training and socialisation plan would consist of (how long for, are there trainers in your area that you like, are accessible etc – this is very important step for you to consider with this breed); what the best food is for the breed etc etc etc (basically, think of everything!). And then, make a decision about whether this is the dog for you.

Good luck with your research…

I've gone for one of these (actually two, as they do a puppy offer - where you buy a small one for when a  puppy,and an adult one for when fully grown, and you get a discount). I'll let you know how it goes when it arrives!

Was just doing a bit of research myself, and came across this website.

http://www.parkvets.com/petsandvets-seatbelts.html


It also recommends the Ruff Rider Roadie, and the Champion Canine Seat Belt System and gives details of where you can purchase from.

I suppose as I have a puppy just now, I will have to buy a  small size, then upgrade to a larger size later. Oh boy, the expense!!!! Hahaahha.

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have any thoughts on using a dog safety harness in the car?

Are they any good? Are they safe enough? Are any brands better than others?

My boot is too small to fit a crate it (it's a weird shaped Renault Megane with the sticky out bum) and so I need an alternative way to transport my lab safely.

Any thoughts appreciated....

Carol.

Thanks for giving me details of the website...Hovis was lucky in the end to end up with you.

I guess I was being naiive - you're right, it is free advertising for them I suppose. .Just hate the thought of it, and when I feel bad about something, i always try to think of constructive ideas instead of just moaning about it, but i'm sure that many many people before me have thought of and tried lots of options...it's a horrible situation.

I don't envy the situation you had with your friend either - impossible.

Hi,

I've never owned cats, so am not in a position to dish out advice on this, but I would agree with everyone that de-clawing is not an option. Am sure that even if the operation was done under anaesthetic, it would still be very painful afterwards (imagine having our finger nails and toenails removed). Aside from it feeling bad physically, it must surely feel bad mentally - cats use their claws to grip things, climb things etc, and not least, to defend themselves, and so having no claws would surely diminish their quality of life?

I know that in the States and Canada, many cats are kept as 'house cats' i.e. never allowed outside (a whole other debate!!!), and this is often a reason for people de-clawing: 1. the cat scratches things inside the house as this is where it lives permanently and so has no alternative and 2. as it's not allowed outside, 'it won't need to defend itself or climb trees'. This is a totally alien concept here in the UK - people don't keep their cats inside exclusively, and de-clawing just isn't the done thing. All seen as very non-pc i'm afraid!

Now, as I said before, i'm not a cat owner, and don't claim to know much about them, but I do remember seeing a programme on TV about a cat scratching things in the home (again in the U.S), and the owners used some kind of 'claw covers' to minimise damage. http://www.safepetproducts.com/pilot.asp?pg=softpaws_info&gclid=COaP6erRhYoCFRE9FQodWWjDRA . I don't know how safe or useful/practical these things are but just thought it might be worth mentioning. Can't help but feel though that this isn't particualrly natural either! But , it's preferable to removing the claws I suppose.

Good luck, and hope things improve.

Hi All,

1. I don't know what the legal position of this would be, or if it would even be workable, but perhaps it would be an idea to set up a website/forum so that people in the know can log onto it and add details of people/places/phone numbers of those who are known puppy farmers?

At least then there would be a central place where it may be a bit easier for novice dog owners to check whether the place they're thinking of going to get their new puppy is reputable (since so many people seem to be unaware of the signs of a bad breeder).

If this isn't possible or workable, what about setting up some sort of group/funding so that adverts could be placed in local newspapers/national nespapers/magazines/websites listing what to be on the look out for when buying a puppy? This way it's not naming individuals, but is at least making people aware of what they should be on the look out for when purchasing. As mentioned by someone before, I think lots of people, even caring and fairly knowledgeable people who are dog mad, have no idea of the issues of puppy farming until they really do some research - it's just not a well known enough issue.

3.Or, perhaps amongst the members on this forum, we could get an accurate idea of the specific locations of some puppy farms, and members in those areas be on the look out for adverts (and consider taking out their own 'antipuppy farm' advert anonymously along side them - I for one woudln't mind spending my own money to place an advert if was even to help one person be put off!), sticking notices up, making loud and regular noises to their local council).

As i said before, i don't know if these ideas are silly or not, as i'm not as much in the know as some of you are who work in the industry etc, but, you don't know unless you try!

Carol.

I hope this works - sorry if the images are huge (or non-existant!).

This is Hovis, our chocolate lab puppy. In these pics he's just 8 weeks old; he's nearly 10 weeks now, and is getting heavy to lift! He likes to sleep on his back alot...and he snores.

My vet mentioned to me to avoid a company called E&L as they can be difficult to obtain payment from after a claim. I can't comment on this personally however....never used them.

Carol.

yup he sure is - he's doing brilliantly - he's lovely!

All good points from everyone - thanks!

And yes, I should point out, I did mean 7.30 pm till 10 pm, not 7.30 am!!

Oh dear, well here was me thinking I was doing some things right!  ??:

Every book and magazine i've read lately has suggested making positive associations with his crate, i.e give toys, strokes, praise, and the odd small treat for him to find - am keen to know why this isn't maybe a good idea?

With the hot water bottle, i've always been careful not to fill with water that's really hot - is even this a bad idea? Probably depends on the temperature of the house - I sleep with window open as I like a cool room, so hopefully no real danger from a tap-hot hot water bottle. It's no warmer than the heat generated form cuddling up to lots of other puppies and his Mum surely?

He sure does need a lot of sleep indeed - he sleeps for nearly all the day! I'm no expert, but I think having him awake between 7.30 and 10 isn't too much of a stretch, considering he can fall asleep whenever he likes for all the 22.5 remaining hours. It's also the only time of the day he gets to see and play with my other half - this is important too, as I want him to bond well with him too...

Is there anything else I can be doing that i've maybe not thought of, if these things are a no-no?

Hi All,

Last night, we had our first night in a week and a half with new puppy where he didn't cry!!

We still took him to the toilet, after setting an alarm (which we usually do, but he wakes us before it goes off normally - twice!) since at only 8 weeks old I think it's not fair to make him try to hold it all night - I can't even manage it!

So, I thought i'd post some details about what we have done to help him not cry, as I know this sort of thing is difficult with new pups, and lots of people seem to have this issue. I'm sure he will still cry at some point, so I'm not saying we've got is sussed completely - just a bit more under control hopefully, and on the right track:

-We've had the crate in our bedroom from the start (plan to move it in a few days or so to the kitchen)
-The crate is covered on top and sides with a dark sheet
-Although he's had lots of cosy blankets from the beginning, we introduced a proper dog bed last night, and he loved it
-hot water bottle wrapped in many layers and stuffed under lining of bed to prevent chewing
-ticking clock outside cage next to it
-an unwashed t-shirt of mine
-some treats hidden in crate for if he wakes up, and a toy or two for chewing
-Most importantly I think; losts of games and awake time in evening - we kept him awake from 7.30 through till 10, when he dropped off without a sound.

I'm sure this is advice most people know already, but it's good to share again! We'd tried one or two things from the list above in isolation, without much success, but i'd recommend the 'Full Monty' to others!

Carol.

Well that's sort of what I thought - I did wish at the time he had been a little more helpful to be honest, as I don't feel at all keen on keeping him cooped up for another 3 and a half weeks!

What sorts of outdoor activities can I get pup involved in at the moment that pose least risk of infection? The parks/fields near me all have high concentration of dog walkers and sheep/cows. Or should I just not worry about infection and get him out and about in these sorts of places anyway?

(Sorry to hijack this thread in a round about way, but I hope it will still be helpful to some readers).

Thanks,

Carol.

Hi all,

Regarding socialsiation, I have read in many places that critical period for this to occur successfully, is prior to about 12 or 13 weeks old (and after about 8 weeks). i.e. expose to many places, sights, sounds, smells, people, animals, transport etc as possible during this time. As a new dog owner, I'm extremely confused about how I'm supposed to achieve this, when the puppy's not fully vaccinated during this period - his first vaccinnation took place at 8 weeks old, his second will be when 10 weeks old, and the vet advised that we shouldn't take him out to potentially unsafe places until a further 2 weeks after that, i.e. at 12 weeks old.

This vaccination programme seems like the norm in term of time frames...My understanding was that the 8 week mark is the correct time to perform the first vaccination (i.e. when 65% of puppies are able to accept the 1st vaccine, and their mother's antibodies have subsided - any earlier and the mother's antibodies are still too active, thus preventing the vaccine from working. For the remaining 35% that still have too much antibody left, then 2nd vaccine sees to them 2 weeks later)- if this is the case, how does anyone socialise their dog properly in this 'critical period'??

Have I misunderstood things? Am I allowed to take him out sooner than the vet suggests? Or do people just ignore this critical period and begin socialisation later than the books recommend?

What do others think/do please?

Thanks,

Carol.